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2 weeks living in 9 Mile - LostBeachBum - 08-15-2015
After 2 weeks living in Zion I figured it was time for an update. It's been an exciting adventure so far. When I first arrived I spent 4 days at a little place called Villa Sake, in between Ocho Rios and Oracabessa near the airport. It's a nice shared house with 2 large bathrooms and 2 kitchens for up to 8 people to share. There haven't been many other guests. As I write, I'm sitting here now on their deck built into the cliff side. It actually feels like you're sitting on the sea since it juts out over the waters edge. The villa has 2 rooms on the cliff side as well which have large windows at the bottom that get salt spray when the sea is rough. Interior is $25 a night and the waterfront room was $40, still not a bad deal.
I've been using route taxis often, they are incredibly efficient yet also an adventure of their own. You never know if you're going to get an amateur Nascar driver or how many people and belongings they can fit into a small station wagon. Really wishing I had a bike but haven't found anyone to rent me one.
The drive up to 9 mile is about the same as I remembered it though the road has improved dramatically and people drive with a bit more sense. From Ochi its a little more than an hour. You start to climb into the hills through little towns like Claremont and Alderton. There is usually a thick layer of fog laying in the Valleys in between the high green hills. As you climb higher you begin to have an incredible view of the entire valley. Even though the ride is still a little crazy because of normal Jamaican road hazards and thin shitty winding mountain roads with no guardrails, it is worth it just for the view.
9 mile is a gated compound in the middle of extreme poverty with high walls and metal fences all around. It is the home of Bob Marley's grandfather and is the place where he was born, was raised and is buried. His Mausoleum is located of at the top of Mount Zion where Bob had a little house and his single bed. "we'll share the shelter, of my..." you get it.
It's hard to be around the poverty all the time. My travels have hardened me to the realities of this world and now have a better grasp on the fact that I can't help everyone in a financial way. Even though I do try to mentor them and help where I can. It's absolutely heartbreaking to see kids who obviously have nothing. No shoes and rags for cloths. Begging me and all the visitors for money. Sitting outside my bedroom door literally sticking their hands through the cracks in the gates begging me for money for school. Begging for books, begging for work. Any work for any pay. Im talking about 7-10 year olds. From what I've heard their parents send them to the gates and even if school is paid for they won't let them go. Who knows. I'm starting to make coconut oil and have put a few of them to work. One stands out as a natural leader and I've been schooling him. He's being paid and subbing out the work while chipping in but also taking care of his people with water and snacks. He's going to make it out of this area.
I gave away everything I brought down for the school and they all seemed to enjoy coloring. I even got the boys to share with the little girls who came after there was nothing left. You ever tried to convince a kid who has nothing to give up the pages of a brand new monster sized coloring book and some crayons? In the end they were all smiling. Which they usually are even though they're a hard group and I hear their fights often. After the crowds have gone they climb the hill or stand on top of the houses across from the compound where they box and wrestle and just hang out, maybe 10-15 of them. When they see me they do back flips and tricks and smile and wave. It always brings me a bit of peace at the end of the day.
The days are long, for me at least. I'm up by 6 since that's what time the workers get there. First I plan the day's menu based on my notes from the night before, a routine I'm trying teach. Then I start my ritual of wake & bake on the veranda, followed by yoga or meditation, shower and tea. Usually getting into the kitchen by 7:30 to start heating up equipment and prepping for the day which lasts until 7ish. It's great living 100' from my kitchen. Whenever I'm in the mood to make a sauce or a stock or marinate some chicken it's just a few steps away. Every Chefs dream. I'll definitely have a kitchen of my own someday soon that I live this close to.
There are 2 Chefs that I'm training and 2 assistants. They all have positive and negative qualities like we all do and are coming along. Although a bit slower than I would like. Jamaica and Jamaicans have their own speed which is one of the reasons I've always be drawn here. Because that speed suits me just fine, in most situations. One of those times when you to crank up your speed is in a commercial kitchen. Part of the challenge is speeding the guys up to handle increased business. It's an uphill battle. But my chefs cook excellent food and do seem to learn fast. Just some bad habits that need breaking.
I'm very proud of the food that has been coming out the kitchen. We're trying lots of new things to see what sells. Not only are the chefs skills improving but I'm learning some tricks as well. They are cleaning properly, things are organized and food is being treated safely. My wish list was granted and they now have enough equipment and a stocked pantry to cook a variety of dishes. Their menu space has been increased 3 times and now people actually know we have food. Even the staff are pushing the food successfully which is a whole nother story but you gotta respect a country's customs. All and all, things are looking good for the turn around the bosses are hoping for.
The biggest challenge is the tour operators. To be blunt, they do not trust a white chef and I've heard something to that affect in several conversations. I smile and act the good Chef. Trying to explain to them that I'm just here to improve the food and train the staff, not taking anyone's job. Some are coming around but there is resistance from several. You see, they basically control where the tourists eat. It's a complicated game with kickbacks, lots of old bitterness and current contracts. Tie that with the fact that most people eat on the way to visit 9 mile because of how far the drive is and you have a challenging crowd to sell food to no matter how fast and delicious it is.
The focus is now on fast take away food rather than a variety of sit down meals. 1/4 jerk chicken and bread, tacos and patties. I've done my mango Chipotle jerk a few times, that was a hit with the locals. I grill every day on the jerk pan over firecoal with fresh pimento branches and green berries for smoke. It really is amazing. We're about to try chicken burgers and maybe chicken sausages and hot dogs. Most people are in a hurry so items like that will hopefully do well once we get everyone on board.
It's great interacting with so many different people from all over the world on a daily basis. For many, Bob has been an important part of their lives. I had a fantastic job offer the other day from a somewhat famous Jamaican Chef living in Hawaii. He has a successful restaurant and a food truck sitting in storage. After a tour, some sampling and conversation over some spliffs he said come on over and get it started. Even offered to put me up while I figured things out. I'll keep that one in my back pocket
Some mornings I climb the hill to Zion, which is where Bob, his mother and brother are entombed. I sit on the meditation rock and burn a spliff while I look out over the fog covered valley. It's easy to see where Bob got the inspiration for 'Misty Morning' and where his positive vibes must have originated from. It's an incredibly spiritual place. I was there 3 nights before I finally walked up to pay my respects after a long frustrating day. The challenge was getting to me and I needed to clear my head and find strength. As I walked through the gate and started up the path something warm and lite inside of me stirred and began to grow. As I sat down on the rock all that negative energy disappeared and all that was left was an uplifting calm. The night was as clear as I've ever seen it with the milky way stretching into eternity. Since that night I've felt like a new man. The bad rolls off my back because everything little thing is gonna be alright.
That's it for now. I'm in horrible pain with an impacted wisdom tooth that is swelling so bad I cant close my mouth. I'm actually considering hopping on a plane and finally having the surgery. Treating it with huge doses of Ibuprofen, anbesol and hash at the moment. Will give it another day to see how it feels.
Cool runnings
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - rootswoman - 08-16-2015
Wow! Great post!
I am rushing off to work but I'm so glad that I took the time to read it.
Thanks LBB
Im glad to hear you found some solace -
I felt some "magic" while there - despite the annoying tour guides, something just came over me and put me at peace - Ill never forget it.
Keep up the great work and thanks for checking in.
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - Tim - 08-16-2015
Good read. Thanks for the update. It seems like a great opportunity not many get a chance to experience.
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - jitterbug - 08-17-2015
admire your energy . . . difficult to deal with all the jamaican runnings . . . hope you get your tooth looked after . . . i hear there are good dentists in jamaica . . .
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - brian - 08-17-2015
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RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - rastagirl777 - 08-17-2015
Sounds like you have a good gig there! Is it a permanent thing? Its great that you can teach and train young Jamaican chefs in the making.
As far as the tour operators, dude - you are being "hazed". I understand their resentment about your taking a Jamaican's job and not understanding the big picture behind it...Jamaicans are very in the moment, not always about the "big picture". They will come around.
Good luck!
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - LostBeachBum - 08-17-2015
Thanks everyone. This morning the pain is worse and the gum is turning bad colors so I'm flying back to the US on Wed to have the tooth removed. I have some strong antibiotics and pain killers in the mean time, hoping for the best. I'll be back down in a few weeks to finish what I started. The contract is only supposed to be for 6 weeks so I'll come back down and stay for another month or so. I'm working on some cookbooks and Bob's brother said I could stay here for inspiration if I trained the Chefs. Not a bad trade...
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - kylake - 08-18-2015
Thanks for the update LBB, very nice indeed. Wishing you safe travel and oral surgery
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - rootswoman - 08-18-2015
Oh gosh - sorry to hear that but I am glad to know you are getting it taken care of.
Have a safe trip - please keep in touch!
Im looking forward to your cook book - I hope it includes pictures and tales of your travels.
RE: 2 weeks living in 9 Mile - murph - 08-19-2015
Best post I've read in a long time. You describe everything so vividly- I feel like I am there with ya.
I really must put 9 mile on my list now.
Wishing you the best with your tooth
murph